Food review by Mark Bradford, wine review by President, Stephen O'Halloran and photos by James Hill
Food
Tuesday was our annual WFS remembrance day, when we honour those members who have passed away during the year. Those members were Ray Kidd (aged 98), Michael Cassimaty (95) and Peter Manners (101). Ray joined the Society in 1969, Michael in 1970 and Peter in 1995. A lot of years enjoyed of fine wine, food and convivial company.
Steve Liebeskind was Chef of the Day, and he noted “in honouring the passing of the Society’s canape master and winemaker extraordinaire, the mindset moved to some obvious choices for the lunch”. Steve was assisted by members James Hill, Greg Sproule and Denis Redfern, with Steve Sparkes poking his head around helping with things as well.
Canapés
These were in abundance, and of high quality.
Greg produced prawn cocktails on toast: small, toasted rounds with shredded lettuce and radicchio, prawn, mayo sauce ad dill.
James served us smoked duck breast from Sunshine Meats in Milperra, sourced by John Banks. These were sliced and put on witlof with a squirt of red currant jelly.
We had smoked chorizo, also from Sunshine Meats, sliced with a toothpick and ready to eat. The meat was so good that adding to it would only detract from the flavour.
James put together a terrine. It was Damian Pignolet’s country terrine on toast, topped with pico peppers and cornichons.
A wonderful tribute to the “canape king”, with a splendid champagne (thanks “Chilly”) to accompany.
Main
Fittingly, this had to be roast beef with Yorkshire puddings, the final dish Peter Manners cooked as Chef of the Day, aged 96. Many members will recall that day and the quality of the meal; it was also served with Escoffier assistance on his 100th birthday last year.
Steve sourced four Scotch fillets weighing between 2.5 and 3 kgs, and they were marinated for 36 hours in garlic, hot English mustard, salt, pepper and olive oil. These were then brought to the REX, where they were seared and put on a roux and in the oven for 50 minutes, then rested for 40 minutes to allow the flavour to go to the centre. The result was a medium rare beef with some crunch bits for texture.
The gravy was beef based, using offcuts from the fillets added with beef stock. Five litres was created, with the juice from the roasting pan being added and reduced by 40 percent.
Yorkshire pudding? Who better to put his hand up than proud Yorkshireman Denis Redfern (Steve also did a batch of 24). These were made at home, brought to the REX and put in the oven 10 minutes before service to help raise and crispen. The two puddings served were from different recipes, and accordingly, looked quite different.
The vegetables served were pureed roasted pumpkin and al dente green beans, blanched before entering the oven.
Cheese
The cheese was the same as that served at Peter’s 100th last year – Colston Basset Stilton selected by Neal’s Yard dairy – a blue cow’s cheese.
A limited quantity of Stilton is made at Colston Bassett to a traditional recipe exclusively for Neal’s Yard Dairy using animal rennet, which creates a delicate, friable texture and long, complex flavour. Curds are hand ladled into cylindrical moulds; a time-consuming and painstaking process, but one that helps to preserve the structure of the curd and deliver a smooth rich textured cheese. The piercing takes place later in the maturation process in order to strike the right balance between creamy, flavoursome paste and blue mould. During maturation, the crusty rind forms naturally, encouraged by rubbing and brushing, and after spiking, blueing radiates from the centre. This is a buttery, silky cheese with an elegant sweetness.
An excellent cheese, served with an equally excellent green salad accompaniment provided by Steve.
Today’s bread was Sonoma Mission, characterised by its golden chewy crust and custard-like interior texture.
Wine
What a splendid day, did we all enjoy? 55 of us gathered in our dining room at the REX to say farewell to three of our most senior members, Ray Kidd, Peter Manners and Michael Cassimaty, all of whom passed away earlier this year. We gave them a rousing send-off with great food and wine, accompanied by some fitting tributes from the membership. Steve Liebeskind prepared for us a terrific main of perfectly cooked roast beef, which followed some delicious canapes. Nick Reynolds procured for us some of Ray Kidd's famous wines from the Society cellar, and Mark Bradford delivered a magnificent Stilton cheese. We all left happy and contented. With regard to the wines, we started off with Chilly Hargraves Bernard Bremont Champagne, in a word, delicious. Just what was needed with the plentiful and tasty canapes. I really liked the terrine.
Moving onto the lunch wines, first cab off the rank was the famous Leonay Eden Valley Riesling 2006 @ 11 % This is always a great wine, one of our finest Rieslings. Now I9 yo the wine is lovely, balanced with still firm acids leading to a satisfying finish. Pale yellow in colour with a complex mouthfeel of Lemon Peel and Lime. A great old wine, still delivering top quality.
Wine 2 was the 2008 Pyrus from Lindeman's Coonawarra vineyard, which was established by the late Ray Kidd. A blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec @ 14%, this wine has always been my favourite of the trio of St George, Pyrus and Limestone Ridge. A wine lighter in structure than the other two, and more complex. Medium weight, tannins noticeable, with black currant and mint overtones. Drinking beautifully now, but with time still on its side. A treat.
Wine 3 was the Lindeman's Reserve Bin 1350 Semillon from the Hunter, @ 10.5% from 2013. A top year in the Hunter for Semillon, this was a 12 yo classic. Well balanced with still crisp acid, hints of lanolin and beeswax on the palate. Still sweetish fruit evident. Years still ahead of it.
Wine 4 was my favourite of the day, the Lindeman's Bin 1400 Hunter Shiraz, 2014 vintage @ 14.5%. Grown on the famous Ben Ean vineyard, one of the finest in that region. A complete package, great year, indeed a memorable vintage for Shiraz in the Hunter, this wine deserves to be rated as a classic of the vintages of the last 20 years. An exquisite wine, medium body, layered with warm flavours of dark cherry, spice, leather and earthy overtones. Tannins/oak and acid all perfectly integrated. A joy to drink, still time ahead.
Wine 5 was the truly excellent St George vineyard Cabernet, 2008 from Coonawarra @ 14%. A straight Cabernet, robust flavours of dark fruits, cassis and cedar overtones. Big colour, ripe fruit and some faint mint. Acid/oak/tannins blending in so well. Great length on the finish. A wonderful wine.
Our final wine of the day was a Lindeman's John Riddoch Cabernet from 1988, served in magnum @ 12.3%. Now at 37 yo this was a genuine museum wine, well protected by being in a magnum. Clearly an old wine, but still possessed of some outstanding quality fruit, showing earthy spice, dark cherry and blackcurrant. The colour was starting to fade around the rim, but the wine still had sufficient acid to see it through to an enjoyable finish. This wine was a real treat, great drinking now if you go for old great wines @ 30+ years, but I personally could see little benefit in keeping it any longer, if you are lucky enough to have some hidden away in the depths of your cellar. Time is definitely not on the side of this lovely old wine.
