Lunch Review - author Mark Bradford (Cheese Master) 

A hot and humid Tuesday greeted the first wine tasting lunch of the year, presented by the ever-reliable former President and Chef of the Year, Peter Kelso.  Jonathan Casson assisted with canapés.  A good turn out again for this wine lunch, featuring Burgundies.

Canapés

Jonathan gave us cream cheese with sun-dried tomatoes and chives on crispy quinoa crackers.  We had another from the kitchen – and inspired by James Hill – of smoked salmon, crème fraiche and grated horseradish on crackers.  Both were light and worthy of whetting our taste buds, and were a fitting match with the canape wines.

Main

Peter presented tunnel-boned spatchcocks; the birds being stuffed with warrigal greens as well as Japanese spinach and breadcrumbs flavoured with nutmeg and a touch of cayenne pepper.  The reduction sauce included a little blue cheese.  There was some corn bread on the plate and a garnish of spinach leaves.  Lovely presentation with the birds browned to perfection and ideal for a wine lunch.

Cheese

The Cheese Master presented Taleggio, always a society favourite and in theme to mark the closing of the Winter Olympics in northern Italy.  The microclimate in the natural caves where these cheeses are matured, high in the Alps, encourages the development of a unique flora on the outer rind.  Washed and brushed several times over a month, the cheese develops a thin bloom flecked with blue penicillium moulds.

Beneath the rind, the ivory chalky texture of the cheese begins to change slowly as it ripens, becoming buttery and soft.  The creamy texture, when balanced with the delicious yeasty taste provided by the rind, is one of Italy’s best kept secrets.  Mauri Taleggio is considered one of the finest DOP cheeses made in Italy and should not be confused with the industrial waxed or vacuum-packed copies that are a poor imitation of the original.

Peter served seasonal juicy figs and walnuts to accompany the cheese.

Wine Report - Stephen O'Halloran (President) 

 At the outset let me say simply, this was a terrific afternoon. The food, the wine & the cheese were uniformly excellent.  Congratulations to Peter Kelso, Nick Reynolds & Mark Bradford for their work. Well, done chaps.  One of our best in recent times in my view.  We all went away more than happy with our membership of the WFS, what a lunch for $ 100. ! 

 Dealing now with the wines, we enjoyed a Society canape favourite , the Kumeu River Village chardonnay from NZ  2022 @ 12 %.   Fresh, bright & cheery, easy drinking as a value for money canape wine. Nice acid, aromas of peach   & pear leading to a crisp finish.  Good value.

  We also had a few bottles of a Brian Croser  Tapanatta  Chardy from the Adelaide hills. Not sure if everyone had some. I had a small sample which I found very agreeable, disciplined in typical Croser style, a quality wine. 

 For the Lunch wines we commenced with a superb French White Burgundy, a Saint Aubin from Colin Morey, 2019 @ 13.5 &%.   Wow, what a wine, absolutely gorgeous. From a top year, medium to full body, very elegant & restrained in manner that only the French can at times achieve.  Bright yellow/gold, a mouthfeel of melon & stone fruits wonderful balance, magnificent finish.  What more can I say? 

 With regard to the red wines, we were indulged by our Wine master with 5 high quality Burgundies from vintages ranging from 2005 to 2015.    There was not one bottle in that line up that could be considered as less than high quality.  

 Those of you familiar with my reports over the years, will be aware that I do not embark upon a detailed examination of the same grape variety in 5/6 separate bottles.  That stretches my lexicon of wine descriptions to breaking point.  I just cannot go on after 2/3 bottles saying basically the same or nearly the same thing.   Too boring!     So, what I intend to do in this report is to share with you my opinions on the best 3 of the red wines on the list.   So, sticking my neck out in the truest  meaning of a " courageous decision  "  , my vote for the top 3 are as follows . 

 Winner by a close margin goes to the Morey St Denis 2015 @13 % . An outstanding vintage, great balance & intensity of flavours .  Mid weight, seductive mouthfeel of black fruits, persistent lingering finish. The top wine. 

 Wine 2, by a narrow margin was the Alex Corton 2005 @ 13%.  At 21 yo still a powerful wine, some exotic aromas & tastes, mulberry & earth hints.  An alluring & strong finish, just edged out of top spot by the 10-year younger Morey St Denis. 

 The bronze goes to the 2012  Chambolle Musigny by Cheron @ 13 %.  A much lighter structure than the others, but a velvety & supple texture, delicate flavours .  A great vintage. 

 So, there you have it, my picks. Go ahead fire at will! 

 A memorable afternoon, & again deepest thanks to those who put it all together.