Wine Report by Stephen O' Halloran

A modest turnout of 34 would have regarded themselves fortunate for making the decision to attend. Nigel Burton’s duck main was certainly a winner. This was the final COTY of the year, and I am sure those attending will rate the meal highly on their score sheets. For more about the food, see the Food Report.

Aperitif

We began in fine style with a Society favourite: Minaia Gavi 2021 (13%). Not only is this wine a favourite here at the WFS, it is also highly regarded in Italy. From Piedmont and made from the Cortese grape, it shows high acidity balanced with quality fruit, producing a delicious, mouth‑filling wine—dry yet very flavoursome. A perfect partner for antipasto and an excellent aperitif.

Main Course Wines

Wine 1 – Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay 2022 (12%)

This wine proved a lightning rod for diverse opinion—some loved it, others sneered at it. Intense, rich and voluptuous, verging on overpowering. Huge quality fruit: peachy, buttery, gleaming gold in colour and in excellent condition. Heaven for those who enjoy that style and made by one of our finest winemakers.

On the negative side, many in the room felt it was an abomination of quality Chardonnay fruit. Fair enough—battle lines drawn. To the cognoscenti, compared with a good White Burgundy, it was coarse, uncouth and vulgar. I can understand those assessments. On the other hand, many enjoyed its huge, fruit‑driven style, leaving no doubt that they were drinking an Australian Chardonnay.

Wine 2 – Girardin Pinot Noir 2012, Côte de Beaune (13%)

For me, this wine was overpowered by the lingering flavours of the preceding Chardonnay. An entry‑level Pinot from a year that produced some good wines, though patchy overall. Now at 14 years of age, it showed light structure, some cherry fruit and fine tannins. Pleasant drinking, but a little nondescript, leaving the impression that it had peaked a few years ago and was now beginning to fade.

Wine 3 – Yalumba “The Cigar” Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Coonawarra (13.5%)

A very big wine: dark, almost opaque, brimming with ripe fruit and strong tannin and oak overtones. Hints of mulberry and blackberry—rich and powerful, though possibly over‑extracted. At 18 years old, I felt that this once big and muscular wine was beginning to fade. Acidity dropping off slightly, and the finish was disappointing.

Wine 4 – Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz 2007 (14%)

A good‑quality wine, consistently reliable over many years and excellent value. Today, however, it showed the hallmarks of 19 years of bottle age. Still very drinkable but not offering much excitement.

Pick of the Day

The Gavi.